Star block tutorial for swap

If you haven’t signed up yet for this swap, there’s more info here

Here’s how to make the block.

Pat also has a tutorial on FPP here

First download the templates from here

Print AS IS! don’t shrink to fit…. that’s very IMPORTANT.

Print out the whole file – 4 pages

( in our case we’re supposed to make 12 blocks so that’s 48 sheets of paper) maybe print one file at a time, then it’s not so overwhelming

Rough cut them out leaving some plain white around it.

I like to line them up how a quadrant of the block will look with the center of the block on the top left (scissors)

Now pick out your fabrics – each person will email me their color choices

AND Kona cotton white.

Now write on the blocks what fabric goes where and write in on EACH piece. the bottom left mirroring the top right side.

Writing them on all sheets helps when you sew, as EQ sometimes numbered them in a different order, just concentrate about template “A” and have the rest be like that too.

Here’s the cutting directions

A1 = 1” x 3”

A2 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

A3 = 3 ½” x 1 ½”

A4 = 1 ¼” x 3” KONA WHITE

A5 = 7” x 1 ¼” KONA WHITE

A6 = 5 ½” x 1 ½”

A7 = 4” square cut in half diagonally

A8 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

A9 = 3” square cut in half diagonally

 

I like to lay out the fabric piles in order from the bottom and up, so I always grab what’s closest to me

Before you start sewing, score/fold on each line on the papers on all 8 pieces.

The first piece is the trickiest and there’s different ways to do it

Lay out #1 on the back of the paper with right side UP, it should overlap at least 1/4” all the way around

If you fold the paper back on the edge between #1 and #2 it’s easy to see if it’s right.

Now lay #2 on top, right sides together and pin from the right side of the paper

OR you can use a bit of glue to place the first piece of fabric, you’ll still pin #2 on top

Make sure the stitch length is small- I have 1.5 and the needle in the middle

Here I started where the seam allowance started, but if the line is in the middle of the paper, just start a few stitches before it starts.

Stitch on the line between #1 and #2

And stop a few stitches past the line but not too much.

Do that with all 8 pieces

When cutting threads, cut close to the stitching otherwise you’ll have a bird’s nest of threads on the back (ask me how I know)

You may not need to do this step this time around but just double check, fold back the paper on the scoring line to reveal just the sewn fabrics and using the ADD A QUARTER ruler, trim down to 1/4” if needed.

You can get the ruler online many places

Iron toward #2 fabric

then fold back paper at the line between #2 and #3 (can’t remember if that’s the picture from above or not) trim to 1/4”

Now lay #3 on that edge, right sides together and making sure it will cover the #3 spot on the paper as it’s a rhombus shape and kind of odd.

sewn down that seam

iron toward #3 and trim the next seam between #3 and #4

a

When working with white or light fabrics I like to have the white overlap the edge by 1 or 2 threads, this way when I iron it, you won’t see the fabric behind it from the front

Fabric #5 is a long one and I have a large ADD a QUARTER ruler

Since it’s such a long piece of fabric it’s a good help to pin this one to prevent from sliding around when you move to the sewing machine

iron and trim the next seam

#6 done

#7 done

#8

#9

According to Pat she doesn’t trim the whole paper until the block is done, so I just trimmed the long side that’s the “mirror” side on all 8 pieces

Sort the blocks into left and right

matching the seams by sticking pins straight thru on the seam allowance and line –intersections

then pin thru the layers

sew down the line and open up to see if it still matches up correctly, otherwise rip out and fix

I like to them take out the paper on the seam allowance

and iron the seams open

Trim down to 6 1/2” by starting at the seam lines by the center (away from the white piece)

Then trim the other 2 edges

Sew 2 sections together and open to check the seams again

and again remove the papers and iron the seams open

Now sew the last edge again by matching up intersections with pins going straight up and then pinning around

Here’s the block with seams ironed opened

remove all the papers and iron flat and double check that the block is 12 1/2” ( mine was perfect before I removed the papers, then it was a smidge larger after the paper were removed so I trimmed again- 6 1/4” from the seam in the middle on each side.

Here’s the block all done!

If you want to join, let me know soon, they are all due in my hands on Oct 1st so there’s almost 3 months to make them.